Natalie writes...

...about her experience while volunteering in the Peru program.

Diary Entries:

· Really only day 3 in Cusco?
· Me 'n Tarzan
· Inti Raymi, numb bums & gripe
· Magnificent Machu Picchu
· My perspective on Cusco
· Final (Peru) countdown
· Peru, Bolivia & Darn Altitude

Really only day 3 in Cusco? (18 June 2008)

I've now been in Cusco for 3 days and thankfully the altitude didn�t bite too much. But the days are going really quickly!... I am living at Casa de Yoni, Yoni is a lovely Peruvian woman who cooks us 3 meals a day, speaks only Spanish and is super sweet. She has a 19yr old daughter Wendy (who speaks a little English) and dog Toto (doesn't say much of anything). I'm sharing with 4 other volunteers (3 from the US, 1 from Canada although he's leaving tomorrow for 2 weeks in the Jungle... with no hot water or electricity...eek!).

Yesterday I visited my volunteer project for the first time. There are so many projects around here that the volunteers work on, mainly orphanages, schools and at medical centres... So now I spend from 3:30 - 6:30pm at a community centre really high up in the mountains of Cusco. To get there I catch a bus (along with the other volunteers) as far up as it'll go then walk another 15mins up the steep hills to get to the centre.

The community centre has been established in the poorest part of Cusco and the children choose to attend after school. They range from around 2 or 3 yrs to a solo mum of 19yrs. We don't teach them English, just play and help with homework. I think the kids all think I'm pretty stupid because I can't communicate with them but they're super cute and run and hug and kiss you all the time. I played soccer with the boys yesterday so that I didn�t have to worry about talking with them much. Today I traced pictures for them from books so they could colour them in and helped the really little ones cut pictures out.

I had my first Spanish lesson today and am in Basic level 1... My days are going to get really busy now because I have Spanish from 11 - 1pm, have to get back to the house for lunch from Yoni at 1.30pm, back to the language school office (I'm never going to look at those language schools at home in the same way again when I get back!) at 3pm to head up to the project, back home by 7.30 for dinner and that's the day pretty much done. Am going to get organised for some weekend trips too because think time is going to go really quickly!

Me 'n Tarzan (25 June 2008)

I went to the Jungle this weekend!

It was a last minute trip thanks to 3 friendly volunteers who I met on Friday night (and we flew out 10am Saturday morning!). I�d been emailing one of the girls, Carla (an American from Virginia), who is also volunteering through GVN to try and meet up. She invited me to join her and some friends for dinner on Friday and I was introduced to Hannah (from Novia Scotia) and Danni (from Manchester) who were also going to the jungle on Sat.

It was a great example of the way things work around here. Most volunteers come on their own so are all in the same boat and really friendly. The girls offered to try and see if I could get included on the tour at the last minute. I was to call them in the morning and see if it had worked out, go to the airport and try and buy last minute tickets on the same flights as them, and go from there.

We flew 55mins from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado, the main town that accesses the Peruvian Amazonian jungle and about 3hours from the Bolivian border. We got off the plane and immediately felt the tropical heat and humidity wash over us. I could have sworn we were in a totally different country such was the contrast from the bustle of Cusco! Walking across the runway into the airport I felt icicles inside my body melt away. Bliss!

The heat, bicycle taxis and general ruggard look of the shops reminded me of Thailand...The accommodation was great, bungalows with a bed that provided me with the best sleeps Ive had since home, a view from the balconies of expansive jungle and of course hammocks for ultimate relaxation.

We set off in the boat again to make our way further along the Madre de Dios river to the Tambopata Reserve - a part of this part of the jungle that authorities have allowed people to visit. It represents only a tiny part of the whole area but thankfully most of it is protected so the jungle and wildlife don't get destroyed by nosy tourists like me.

We spent about 4 hours exploring around the reserve and also taking a ride on Lake Sandoval. We saw lots of birds, some small bats, 2 caiman (small alligators), monkeys, and towards the end a whole group of South American Coatis that Id never seen or heard of before. Very cool..!

The next day we had a 'city tour' around the markets in Puerto Maldonado before heading to the airport for our flight back to Cusco. The markets were mainly produce and we saw lots of carne (meat) that was pretty grim but I found oddly intriguing... no cuy (guinea pig) though.

All in all a great weekend, and back just in time for Cusco's massive Iti Raymi celebrations.

Inti Raymi, numb bums & gripe (28 June 2008)

So, Inti Raymi, the week-long celebration of the sun when Cusco goes into overdrive and tourists come in droves, seems to have finally ended...

Last week there were daily parades down Avenida del Sol (the main street in Cusco) and in Plaza de Armas. It was a fantastic time to be here to see everyone from teeny tiny school kids to fully grown adults dressed up in traditional costumes and dancing in the streets all day and night. Even some of our own teachers, volunteers and staff from Maximo Nivel paraded on Monday (I chose not to, I figure I did my fair share of street parades as a marching girl all those years ago!).

Anyway Inti Raymi celebrates both the anniversary of Cusco and carries on ancient Inca traditions to commemorate the winter solstice (the Sun's New Year). The aforementioned week-long build up culminates in a massive ceremony on 24th June. The ceremony and parading starts in the morning at Qorikancha (Sun temple on Avenida del Sol), makes its way to Plaza de Armas then eventually up to the Inca ruins at Sacsayhuam�n (pronunciation sounds something like "sexy woman").

We were a little worried when the "sacrifice of the llama" scene started - from where we sat we couldn't tell if it was a real llama or not. We decided that since we couldn't see a real struggle and didn't smell any hideous smells when they burned it in preparation for the great feast the llama was probably ok. The supporting soundtrack through the speakers that included llama squeals for effect was an interesting touch!

The ceremony was finished in about 2 1/2 hours and was worth the numb bums and early start for. The whole experience was a great one to be here for... Am off to Machu Picchu for the weekend tomorrow. Its another 4.30am start but I can't wait, its THE thing to do here and am determined that I'll be able to climb Huayna Picchu and enjoy this majestic place that I've heard so much about.

Magnificent Machu Picchu (2 July 2008)

I was honestly a bit worried when I got up at 4.30am Saturday morning and with Beth and Katie made my way to catch the train to Aguas Callientes for our visit to Machu Picchu.

You see, as mentioned before, Machu Picchu is THE thing to do here. Whether you spend up to 5 days trekking to get there, or do what we did and catch a train and bus there, it's expected that everyone visits this (formerly) lost city and ancient wonder of the world. And it's expected that everyone will love it.

So I found myself wondering if it was a little over-hyped and hoped like anything that I wasn't going to find myself standing there thinking "is that it?".

After a 4 hour train ride, Beth, Katie and I arrived at Aguas Callientes. Aguas Callientes is nestled in the foot of the mountains near Machu Picchu and everyone has to pass through to get to the promised place. Its possibly the craziest place that I've ever been to. Not crazy as in hectic or neon signs everywhere. More crazy in that it seems that demand exploded and locals quickly tried to create a �town� and threw up buildings wherever they could. The result is a pretty ugly looking mass of buildings that look like they'd fit in a Dr Seuss book (the angles, not the colours) and more restaurants than visitors all vying for your patronage. As ugly as it is, I kinda liked the way it defies any real town or city planning... I couldn't live there, but I like its attitude I guess.

...We met our tour guide and caught a bus up the incredibly windy and narrow mountain to Machu Picchu. It was a beautiful drive and I was really pleased that the drivers there weren't anything like the ones in Cusco who play chicken and toot their horns all the time. These drivers very politely pulled to the side when another bus came to let it pass. And thank goodness they did, it was a sheer drop down the side of the mountain most of the way!

Once we arrived we made our way through the gates and a little walk then.... voila! There it was. The lost city that is seen on all the postcards everywhere. And it looked exactly the same - except I was standing there! I was so excited that I had a ridiculous grin on my face for ages and started to take ridiculous amounts of photos to match.

We had a 2 hour guided tour through the city where our guide explained what everything was (or at least they think it was). Some of it was a bit dubious (like the shadows reflecting off some rock also making a llamas head, couldn't really see it and didn�t get the point but no matter...), but most of it incredibly interesting.

After the tour we made our way to climb Huayna Picchu. Huayna Picchu is the mountain that is shown in all of the images of Machu Picchu and only 400 people per day are allowed to climb it. Everyone that walks up has to sign their name, age and nationality then re-sign to confirm they've made it out ok. We were the first people in the second and final 200 that were allowed up at 10am to climb it. I was pretty nervous about how my fitness would hold up and had heard it was pretty narrow and steep going up. Although it was hard it was doable and we took it really slowly and got to the top in about 45mins.

I hadn't prepared myself for the top at all! The view was absolutely incredible and I could clearly see the 'condor' shape that the Machu Picchu ruins make confirming the theory that our guide had told us earlier. But the top was also simply the top of a very steep mountain. There wasn't much space up there, lots of rocky boulders and sheer drops into the valleys down, down, down below. I was really nervous and my legs started shaking worries I was going to fall off! I got some photos at the top but sat on the edge of some of the rocks while others stood. Pretty shaky, we started our descent back down to the bottom. It was one of the toughest psychological things I've ever had to do. With nothing to hold on to except for one side of the mountain and a massive drop below, I slowly crawled down the ridiculously uneven and narrow steps (and I have small feet!). At one point I thought I was going to have to live at the top and was pleased I had some nuts in my bag that would keep me alive for a while. Beth and Katie were both really supportive and helped talk me down and once I got to a section that I remembered coming up I was ok again.

It was an awesome experience and at the bottom again (after signing to confirm we'd made it down alive - I now understand why!), I spent about 5 more hours wandering and exploring the ruins... Perhaps it was overcoming the sheer terror from the climb, perhaps it was the sun that shone perfectly all day, or perhaps it was simply that the Quechuans and Incas truly did create a city in a magical place in the stunning Andean mountains. Whatever the reason, Machu Picchu to me was certainly worth the hype!

My perspective on Cusco (6 July 2008)

Wow, I can't believe I'm in my final week in Cusco!

I am torn between being excited to head off to Bolivia on Friday and take a look at a new country, and feeling really sad to be leaving this great city, and of course the kids, so soon.

Most of what I've written so far has centred around the weekend trips and visits I've made in between the voluntary work and living here. It feels fitting to talk a little more about the day to day stuff of being here.

The things I won't forget:

• The kids! Honestly, some days I really struggle with the idea of heading up to the project to visit the kids but as soon as we get there and the kids run up with their "hola proffy!", big hugs and kisses, it feels good to be there again. I'm still not convinced how much practical help I've been but I do adore them and am not looking forward to saying goodbye on Friday.
• The beautiful architecture. Cusco really is a pretty city. I was dubious at first, there are plenty of dusty muddy roads, erratic stray dogs and disheveled buildings that don't make you think "pretty". But there are also countless paved streets, plazas and stunning Spanish churches and buildings that both during the day, and lit up at night, make this one good looking place.
• Yoni, Wendy and Toto (my house family): They are the sweetest people (and dog) who open their house to volunteers and make us all feel at home. Yoni is the sweetest woman who spends her days making sure that we are well fed (probably too well fed to be honest). My limited Spanish, and Yoni's limited English, means we've tripped over conversations and often looked for someone else to translate for us since I've been here, but we have gotten better. We even managed a political conversation where in very basic Spanish she explained a little to me about what's going on in Peru at the moment.
• Learning Spanish: Everyone knows that I knew nothing when I arrived and although my grammar is terrible and I forget words almost as soon as I've been told them... I do think I've got better. I have had numerous conversations with people about being ill, cost to call NZ, traveling other places, working here... and the taxi drivers at least seem to understand me. Which leads me to...
• Taxis and taxi drivers: Mostly friendly, and always hoping that I'm a gringo who they can charge top dollar to, I've had some pretty interesting rides in the tiny Daewoo boxy cars they zip around here in constantly tooting their horns. I am absolutely accustomed to only paying local prices now (2 soles, sometimes 3 at night). I am not so accustomed to the way they play chicken with each other though and the numerous near misses they have swerving around each other to get to their destination in the quickest possible way.

There is so much more:

• The colourful markets where you can make instant friends ("mi amiga, chompas por tu, puro alpaca mi amiga") and barter for better prices.
• The hot clear days and freezing cold nights and mornings.
• The cold showers.
• The llamas and alpacas dragged around by small girls dressed in traditional clothes asking you to take photos of them (when they should be in school).
• Jacks cafe (for the best banana smoothies and oversized American meals when you need a break from Peruvian cuisine).
• Awesome bars and restaurants. I haven't been out that much here, but the nightlife is excellent. Always something going on...

Final (Peru) countdown (11 July 2008)

I have just finished my last Spanish class with the lovely Mabel (a name that sounds SO much prettier pronounced in Spanish!).I honestly don't know if anything has stuck but am pretty sure I'll be able to get around Bolivia ok with the basic Spanish that I do have.

The last few days in Cusco have continued to be really interesting. On Wednesday the whole city was closed down with everyone protesting the increasing cost of living and wages that haven't increased in years. There was no transport anywhere (except for a few rouge taxis that braved having rocks thrown at them for still working) and the community centre was closed so we didn't go to the project.

I was really impressed with the dedication to the protest; they really did shut down the city for the day. Avendida del Sol, the main street in Cusco went from being a bustling, noisy, traffic ridden road to a pedestrian and protestors road. The protests were peaceful (barring a couple of burnt tyres I saw on the road) and with the chanting I thought had an eerily similar feel to some of the parades I've seen over the last few weeks. I couldn't help but think about if it were at home and unfortunately admit that most people would probably be apathetic to the cause. Even if they agreed with what the protesters stood for I think we'd probably say "go protesters" while carrying on sitting at work working... or something.

I don't know if they were successful or not. I hope so.

The project has been great the last couple of days too. On Tuesday, along with an Irish volunteer (Chris, who is joining me for one week in Bolivia), we made the most of my $2 shop Bingo Cards and created a frenzy of bingo playing children. Anyone who got bingo came with me into the office and got to pick 2 prizes from a collection of NZ rulers, pencils (thanks to my Dad and Lynda) and random gifts from Chris. The kids absolutely loved it - and it helped me remember my Spanish numbers up to 75! Yesterday was pretty frenzied and I have been taking a million photos of the kids before I finish. At one point I turned around to see which child was tugging on my shirt and realised that in fact about 6 of them had formed a conga line behind me and wanted to conga around the classroom for ages! As always I was filthy and exhausted at the end of the day but had fun.

I'd better run right now though and try and find a thank you present for Yoni as well as attempt to stuff everything into my backpack... the 10 seasons of Friends that I got is seeming somewhat ridiculous right now...

Peru, Bolivia & Darn Altitude (17 July 2008)

The final day at the project was good but weird at the same time. Because it was Juan's last day (who is incidentally coming back in a month to settle in Cusco such is his dedication to the project and city), the kids had organised a performance to say goodbye. And because it was also my last day, as well as one other Spanish girl, we by default were also getting a tremendous farewell.

I couldn't understand a lot of what was said but the performances didn't really need explanation, a love song and bootie dance from some of the girls (proof that pop rules universally for young teens!), a skit from a couple of the older boys who are clearly wannabe comics, and a super cute song and dance from some of the littlies. At the end they presented the three of us with thank you gifts and cards. It was really sweet and even though I know it was really meant for Juan I was pretty touched.

After the project I headed 'home' for my final meal with Yoni and everyone at the house. I decided to buy Yoni and Wendy a thank you chocolate cake, and gave Yoni the NZ Haka teatowel that Lynda and my Dad had given me to try and teach the kids the haka (the madness with Spanish alone at the centre meant that it was impossible to even start to try!). When I got home Wendy had bought me the exact same cake as a farewell! Lucky it was very, very yummy! I was very sad to say goodbye to Yoni and Wendy and tears welled as we hugged and with my bulging bags, Dan and I left to meet Chris at the bus station.